Pan Bali Highway

We said our farewells to Pemuteran for the long drive on the north Coast to Tulamben. Not before we’d stopped for coffee and T-shirt buying at Reef Seen and left our CVs with Chris Brown with the glimmer of work in November.

The coast road isn’t too bad although chocker with motos & very slow lorries. Sorry to Mike Franey but you just have to go for it or you’d be there all day. This is worse than crossing the road in Phnom Penh! We manage to negotiate our way though Seririt & Singaraja and still heading in the right direction we think. The sea is on the left and mount Karangasem (active volcano) is on the right, that’s the main thing; signage is a bit haphazard. The only way we’ve found to tell where you are is to read the addresses on the shop fronts and even that’s a bit hit and miss.  

Arrive at the Scuba Seraya in time for lunch and to check in with the diving people. All seems very relaxed and so peaceful after Pemuteran. Small bit to eat before a spot of job prospecting. We’d read about the resort next door (The Emerald) and were hopeful. But how deceptive websites can be. The place is basically going bust and has been since it opened 12 years ago. Such a shame as it should have been a roaring success. Beautiful bungalows scattered in lawns rolling down to the sea. But it’s empty when everything else is full. Maybe because they only cater for the Japanese – who knows. Onward to the Mimpi, having dived with them at Menjangen.

Totally different. They are buzzing and we have another cuppa with the lad that’s running it. Although he says his contract is up for the next couple of months while it‘s windy so he’s off to PNG until it dies down. As the sun’s going down we call it a day and head back to freshen up for early dinner as we’re on for a pre-breakfast dive on the Liberty before he crowds from further afield turn up.

Another new day dawns, the breeze blows away the last of the night’s clouds as we kit up for the 5 minute boat ride to the wreck. The Liberty is a US ship gunship sunk by torpedo in 1943 then pushed further out to sea by the volcano in 1963. It’s quite broken up but the main structures provide a stunning backdrop and home to a wealth of life on and around it. And as promised not too many other divers yet.  

With all this moving around we’ve completely lost track what day it is. Suddenly remember it’s August 8th! Adrian sings Happy Birthday as we fin round the wreck. What more could you want… An underwater serenade by your husband in paradise 

Back for a fine breakfast of tea, toast, eggs & fresh fruit before our second dive on the wall. Lovely.

Quickly get the gear drying as we have to make tracks to our next stop in Amed. Don’t want to be too late as we need to find somewhere to stay. But we are delayed as the staff are surprised we’re leaving before lunch – it’s included (Just how much have we paid to stay here I wonder?)